What is the essence of traditional pie and mash? This very British dish started life in London over 150 years ago and was the staple diet of many poor London workers during the 19th Century. The savoury pies were made with cheap cuts of meat after the Thames failed to support the eel population, these eels were the original filling for the pies as they were plentiful and cheap. But the pies were baked and sold within the city of London, so they were fresh, cheap and hot. They were also a filling meal which kept these manual workers going during a hard days work.
Out of these times evolved the pie and mash shops that so many of us Londoners are familiar with. The more successful pie street traders obtained their own premises and grew their business through the quality of their food. The shops had very simple decor and an even simpler menu. But the very essence of these shops were that they provided a quick, hot meal at a value for money price without the frills. And all this offered with a smile and a joke from the people who owned and worked in these shops. They were mainly for the working classes but who could resist such a cheap and wholesome meal?
Every shop has the same basic menu but the food is always very slightly different. This is because the pies are made fresh and cooked on the premises so each shop has their own family recipe for the pies and the liquor. The liquor was originally based on the stock left over from cooking the eels which was thickened to make a gravy sauce with added parsley. It's green colour can put some newcomers off but the taste is quite bland. A splash of vinegar is all that's needed to liven it up.
Pie and mash is still incredibly popular all over London and the UK. Many establishments have chosen to sell upmarket premium pies with lovely buttery herb mash and a price tag to match. Whilst this can still be a delicious meal, the true pie and mash eating houses stay close to the foods roots. They serve traditionally made pies, they bake fresh on the premises and they serve quickly at a great price. Pie mash and liquor was the original fast food, before burgers had even been invented. By supporting your local pie and mash shop or restaurant this traditional dish can live on for many more years.
Sean Horton is a Director of Goddard's Pies Limited who have been making pie and mash since 1890.
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